SOURCE: Generator Starts but won't continue running/dumpimg fresh fuel into filter
My answer:
Not knowing your exact model # or how old it is, and knowing only what
you said above - TOTAL RUN HOURS unknown as well? - I can
only give you several possibilities
of what the problem might be - even though I don't know the exact model
# and which engine you have on the Genset. Porter Cable as well as Coleman and others do not themselves mfr much of
anything today, but like with many USA companies out there today it
does private label out to a lot of mfg vendors (mostly in China btw),
and the Genset gas engines are numerous. From Briggs & Stratton to
Honda to Subaru and so forth...
I also don't know what normal LOAD you were putting on your Genset there, or have been putting on it previously, or at what
RPM you are normally running the engine at - as to half throttle or full throttle
setting?? I take it that it's a Briggs & Stratton 4-stroke single
cyl, or is it a Honda 4-stroke single/twin cyl engine?
Any Genset that is going to be put into storage for that long a period
of time I would first and foremost recommend running the Carb Bowl dry
first by running the Genset at FULL speed, and while running turning
off the gas until it dies. Thus removing as much gas from the Carb
Float Bowl as possible!
Most people do not do this and forget about that small amount of stale
gas in the Float Bowl, and that is what causes VARNISH in the Carb Bowl
faster then anything else.
Just putting a gas preservative in the gas tank doesn't solve the
VARNISH problem because that never gets down to the Carb to begin with
if the gas line shut-off valve is closed before the preservative gets
down there.
If the Float decides to stick while in storage, and then it's brought
out to fire up naturally the gas will flood out the Carb and probably
the Air Filter Box as well.
It's always better to store the Genset DRY! I know I do and I have NO problems at all with stale gas, etc.
Since all Gensets need to be run a minimum of 10 minutes every 30 days
(every 1 month religiously), or whatever your owners manual recommends
- if you haven't been doing this, or don't run the gas out of the Float
Bowl before shutting the Genset down after each use - then most likely
the Carb is gummy or possibly has dirty gas in the bowl and is the
problem.
I seriously doubt you did any damage to the engine by the recent gas over-run and flooding.
You might try and tap carefully on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl
with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the
stuck Float inside. If there is a WIRE at the bottom of the Float Bowl
on your model - DO NOT HIT THAT GAS SHUT-OFF SOLENOID WITH THE RUBBER
HAMMER - as you will do damage to it! If this dislodges the stuck Float
then your problem is solved!
You may still want to run a bottle of Carb Cleaner in the tank just in
case to clean out any residual buildup in the Float Bowl, etc. If it
runs fine then No Problem.
First and foremost always check your OIL LEVEL and make sure you have changed it out according to your owners manual!!!
If your Genset still runs sporadically for only a short time and then starts to cut out I would look more for like a fuel vapor
lock (partially closed or clogged gas cap vent), a possible dirty fuel
filter, possible water moisture in the gas tank or in the Carb bowl,
possibly dirty Carb in general along with it's dirty Float Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve, and any Adjustment Screws that go Into the Carb Body.
It's hard to say unless the Carb first is broken down, checked for
proper Float action setting, and/or cleaned out accordingly if dirt is indeed
present in the bottom of the Float Bowl.
If all looks good there Carb Bowl wise then you will next need to check
the FLOAT adjustment itself to make sure you aren't flooding the Bowl.
Your Operators/Service Manual should have that adjustment there. If not
let me know and I'll post it for you. Also the air/fuel mixture Jet
Adjustment Screws will need to checked as well.
Let me know if you should need that adjustment procedure as well after you first check out
everything else I stated above?
That covers everything from a fuel standpoint.
Again - You do know that all Gensets should be started and run for at least 10
mins every 30 days - right? If you didn't know this - now you do! Every
good operators manual should state this.
It just doesn't sound like it's starving for gas - that's for sure!
The gas tank fuel line does have an in-line fuel filter correct? If it
doesn't you definitely need to add one for dirt protection!!
Having covered everything from an fuel standpoint
engine wise - there is only one other thing left Genset wise.
Beings your Genset there might just have some high RUNTIME HOURS on it - it just could very possibly
be what sounds like to me (and I personally HAVE SEEN this
happen myself firsthand) that the generator brushes are nearly shot
- as in almost worn out. They may be getting too too hot - as from
excessive current draw at point of contact, and thus the generator
sensing circuitry itself is doing an electrical CUTOUT!!
An added protective Genset circuit feature in that the generator itself
may indeed be linked to the engine as a type of REV LIMITER or CUTOUT on the Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition.
Again - your operators or service manual should have a pretty good
troubleshooting section in it unless you don't have that anymore or
never got one if you bought it used to begin with.
If you unscrew & remove the Generator brushes, and they are indeed
below the recommended length (or worse case they are indeed totally
worn down) then that too most likely could be your problem right there.
If you choose to replace the old brushes with new ones yourself - be
very careful when seating the new ones - as to their insertion and cap
retainer tightening. Never over-tighten those black plastic-like brush
retainer screw caps - for if you break one (hard to get immediate
replacements is why), or fracture one it could cause the Genset to fail
under LOAD, and that very well could do some severe damage to the
generator part itself. Take your time doing it, and be patient!!
It has to be one of the scenarios listed above, as I've covered every
possible cause short of a broken wire somewhere - which in that case
you will have to schematic trace and Ohm out wire to wire contacts.
This being the least likely scenario from experience.
If you indeed find the Float Bowl assy to be the cause of dirt
contamination or varnish build-up clogging the Carb, and you need a
walk-through of taking it apart, cleaning it out, and then
re-assembling it again - as well as re-adjusting the fuel mixture Adjustment Screws - just give me a shout here, and I'll walk you through it step by step.
Please post me a reply as to the found problem there, and the resolve
to it by following my recommendations above. Also please rate my
troubleshooting fix as well.
Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.
Best regards,
Frank
PS:
GENERATOR OIL CHANGE NEGLECT
People experiencing
starting issues often are not using fuel stabilizer or not changing
their oil. I myself or any good repair shop will first pull the oil out, and most times we'll will find that it has metallic
build up common from any small gas engine that has been neglected.
SOURCE: Colemen powermate Generator 6875w 5500
GENSET ALL PROBLEM FIXES - 2 PARTS
My answer:
Almost 90-95% of all the Genset problems found by the factory approved Genset Service Centers
are related to the fact that people don't read the OWNERS MANUAL first, and
just didn't put OIL in the Genset (or the right amount) - as they are shipped from the MFR
without OIL in the units to begin with!!!! (See esp #3 and Final Notes below as well)
And here I thought everybody KNEW THAT!!
I guess sometimes you just have to ask the most OBVIOUS ??'s first huh (dumb as " it " may sound)?
If you bought your Genset from other then a Home
Depot Store, and it's still under warranty - then you will have to
contact that outlet, and see what they have to say or hopefully can do
for you.
Esp all those Gensets that are Made in China and have flooded the USA
market in the last 10 years or so - no thanks to our representatives in
WASH DC that's for sure. It's a wonder this country even functions with
all this "inferior" Made in China JUNK that keeps prematurely failing
before it's normal time. Sad to say the least!
Some other obvious things to CHECK for that may be the cause of a NO
start condition even after adding proper gas & oil to the brand new
Genset:
1 - Some Genset gas tanks come with a gas cap "blocking insert" under
the gas cap that should be removed according to your manual if it
states this. (Read manual section on "First Time Starting")
2 - Is the gas tank shutoff valve FULLY OPEN? By the same token
(even
if the Genset is or isn't brand new) does it have an in-line fuel
filter anywhere in the gas line? If not then esp read #5. Always check
as well the AIR FILTER for proper cleanliness (if oiled type), or clean
appearance if it's a paper element type. Clean or replace as needed!
3 - Is the RUN SWITCH set to ON or RUN position (this is purely an
"Electrical ON-OFF Switch" usually a single-pole single-throw type btw,
and it can go bad with high usage)? Does it move freely from OFF to ON?
Is it working properly? Test it using a known good quality DVM
or OHM meter! It's contacts may have become tarnished just from sitting
around
too long? Esp where you have saltwater conditions in the surrounding
air! This switch actually & electronically is wired in REVERSE so
that when switched to the ON position the wired contacts are OPEN thus
letting the Ignition Coil fire for SPARK. When switched to the OFF
position the wired contacts are now CLOSED thus connecting (or
switching) the "Control Board" logic voltage signal (usually anywhere
from +3 to +12 VDC upon start-up) to GROUND - thus cutting the RUN
voltage to the Ignition Coil fire - as in SHUTDOWN. On some model
designs there also may be a separate IDLE CONTROL SWITCH and POWER
REGULATOR BOARD for better POWER LOAD self-regulation depending on
constant variable loads placed on the Genset as related to the
work-site demands. If there is NO VOLTAGE OUTPUT but yet good engine
RPM function - then I would look at this part first and then #8.
4 - Is the choke being set to the proper position with or without using Ether spray to the Carb?
5 - Does the Carb have a Yellow or Black wire coming off of the bottom
of the Float Bowl? This goes to the GAS CUT OFF SOLENOID mounted in the
Main Jet inside the Float Bowl. NEVER CUT THIS WIRE as some know-nothings have
suggested here and elsewhere in postings, as there are better ways to test the solenoid without doing
that! If equipped with one - This anti-dieseling solenoid has to work
properly or else flooding will occur with the gas shutoff valve OPEN.
6 - VERY IMPORTANT - Is the Carb Float stuck in the CLOSED position
not letting gas into the Main Jet? If the Genset is brand brand new and
truly has never been fired up even once and used, such as like that of
2-3 years or longer from actual date of purchase, then that Carb Float
may very well be stuck CLOSED. Worse yet - the Main Jet may be clogged
with MICRO DEBRIS coming down from the new gas tank - esp if there is
NO FUEL FILTER present in the fuel line. I've heard of this happening
more then just a few times myself. You might try
and TAP CAREFULLY on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl
with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the
stuck Float inside. If there is that colored WIRE (see #5 again) at the
bottom of the Float Bowl
on your model - DO NOT HIT THAT GAS SHUT-OFF SOLENOID WITH THE RUBBER
HAMMER - as you WILL damage it! If this dislodges the stuck Carb Float
to the point that the Genset now wants to run to some degree better
then before, but not fully 100% better and to spec - then you
definitely still have Carb Float and/or fuel delivery related issues,
and/or MICRO DEBRIS in the Carb Bowl or Main Jet inlet. If the Genset
begins to run great - as it should - and continues to do so -
then your NO FUEL or NO RUN problem is solved! I would still take the
Carb Bowl off and clean out the whole Assy there just as an added
precaution anyway as you just never know. When Gensets are truly needed
in an emergency condition you just don't want to RISK anything!! NEVER
FORCE ANYTHING EITHER!! It's possibly that you might have to loosen slightly,
and/or totally remove the
Float Bowl (usually 2 screws) to see if indeed any gas is getting
inside to the Float
at all. If gas comes out readily but still no gas is getting into the
Main Jet and intake then you purely have a DIRTY CARB issue and nothing
more!
If you're not smelling gas through the air filter box then you are FUEL
STARVED. ALSO - Many a brand new shipped Genset will have some kind of
NEW gas tank (usually metal gas tanks only) MICRO DEBRIS inside the
tank itself or even in the rubber gas line (I've heard of this problem before,
and seen this myself 100's of times with cheaper rubber hoses). That is
why an added in-line FUEL FILTER (if your Genset has none) is SO
important!! Usually a common $2-3 item at any auto parts store. Once
gas is added to the tank all this micro debris is set free to enter
into the CARB FLOAT BOWL, and that is where Carb problems will start -
even with a "brand new" never run before Genset!!
SOURCE: My troy-Bilt 5550 watt generator will not start
First drain the fuel bowl. Any old fuel in there will keep it from starting. Fuel stabilizer is not what it's it cracked up to be. I've worked for 6yrs at a rental yard and had no luck with any fuel stabilizer, the fuel still went bad. If after you drain the fuel bowl it still will not start, you will need to clean the carb. Remove the carb and spray carb cleaner through all the accessible passages. If this does not do it, you will need to replace the carb. For long term storage I highly recommend draining all the fuel and filling just the carb with fuel stabilizer to keep gaskets moist. Then drain the carb when you take it out of storage.
SOURCE: ihave a g900 clarke generator that runs perfect,smells of petrol
Hi i have the same unit, i believe that this is just after fumes that actually smell very much like petrol. As this happens to mine as well and the cap is a very tight seal. Its very much like the smell of an old petrol lawn mower.
Do you know which way round the 240v plugs go.... for instance, which pin is positive (live) and which pin is ment to be negitive (neutral).
As you can put the plug in either way it just seems wrong??
POST SOLUTION HERE THANX
SOURCE: Coleman Powermate on/off switch broke off. Is a DIY out of the ?
there is a wire in the back of the control pad...right behind the on\off switch...once it touches the naked body of the gen. it will shut off..
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