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Posted on May 02, 2011

HOw do I adjust the tables so I do not get a snipe?

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  • Contributor 32 Answers
  • Posted on May 25, 2011
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Joined: Oct 24, 2010
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Hello,
Adjusting a jointer to relieve snipe can be trickey but here are a few procedures that will help.

-The two tables on the jointer are adjustable, the front (infeed) is what you adjust for cut depth.
- The back (outfeed) needs to be the exact hieght as your knives

The outfeed needs to be adjusted first
-unplug jointer
-using a straight edge on the outfeed table adjust it so that when you turn the head (counter clockwise) the knives just touch the staight edge (NOTE** all the knives should touch the straight edge the same, if not your knives are not set correctly) This is your most important adjustment, if the outfeed is to high or to low it will cause inconsistant jointing.
-Now that the outfeed is trued up to the head you can adjust the infeed table, using the straight edge align it so that it is perfectly lined up with the outfeed table (not touching the kinives) Your jointer is now at ZERO

You can now adjust the infeed for depth of cut, Start by lowering the infeed a very small amount (1/16 of a inch to start)

The biggest problem I have seen is that people try to cut to much at one time, it will work alot better if you take several small cuts instead of one deep cut.

Also- getting the knives set perfectly in the head is a key to success, if this is not happening you WILL have jointing problems. ALSO if the knives are not sharp they will pull the material down causing snipe.

I really hope this helps and if you need a visual aid try looking it up on you tube.

I have used my jointer for numerous different projects, Here is a cool one for tapered table legs.
Take a piece of square stock (like 2x2 ) about 3 feet long, make a mark about 2 foot up and wrap a piece of tape around it at the mark.
now make a mark (we will call it a stop mark) on the fence of the jointer by the head.
with a pencil and number the edges on the 2x2 (above the tape so you dont joint them off)

turn on jointer and run side 1 until your tape is at the fence mark, carefully lift 2x2 and do the same to the 2 side.
only joint the #1 & #2 sides, run several more times and you will have a perfect tapered leg.

SHOP DOG

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Any ideas why the raised line appears to and how to prevent it from happening at all?

You have a chip in your blades. This is most often caused by a nail, screw or small stone imbedded in the wood. The only remedy is to have the blades sharpened.
Snipe is a depression cut on the end of the wood as it passes the blade. This is caused by the incorrect height of the blades in relation to the table. You will find many videos in You Tube on how to set up your planer.
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One end of board is thinner than the other end when plained board is done

This is after running it over a jointer? That's not uncommon. Flip the board after every pass to help keep it from happening.

If this is after running it through a thickness planer, are you sure you're not just seeing snipe? If it's not snipe, then the planer's elevation adjustment is somehow slipping or working its way into another position as you plane.

It'd help if we knew which machine you're talking about.

If you're hand-planing, then you'll need to work a bit on technique... practice on cheap softwoods.
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Sniping

You get sniping with all planers and it will always be the length from the cutter head to the second feed roller. Until the board goes under the second roller it is almost impossible to feed it through and not get some sniping. The same applies to the outfeed side also. Better made (more expensive) planers, table extensions and holding up on the end of the board until the other end is under the second feed roller will reduce sniping somewhat but you'll always have some sniping.
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Severe sniping with planer

You will always have snipe at the end of planed boards equal to the distance from your infeed and outfeed rollers. It's severity is determined by how much the board sags or dropps behind the planer until the second roller catches the board. Some planers have extended tables to help with this. What you can do is hold the board up as much as possible and still let the infeed roller move the board smoothly until the board contacts the outfeed roller.
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Delta tp 305 is sniping wood at both ends , is there a solution to this problem?

With any of these portable planers, the sniping can be a problem that you can minimize. Of course you can use a board longer than you need... but more practically: 1. Take light cuts 2. Make sure your infeed and outfeed tables are at the same height and are parallel to the suface of the machine below the cutter. 3. Provide additional in-feed and out-feed support beyond the little in-feed and out-feed tables to keep your material moving consistently in the same plane from start to finish. you might use support rollers. Take care to get the whole setup adjusted all in one plane. Good luck.
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My outfeed table does not run level with infeed table . How do i adjust?

The most important part of the jointer is that the cutting edge is perfectly level with the out feed table, then, bring up the infeed table, with straight edge on rear, make all adj necessary to get these things lined up flat, not level, but flat, straight, even. Then it will cut perfectly flat and even. no snipes,. Hope this helps.
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I have a 15in Grizzly planner that undercuts the last 2in and have to pull the board out.

What you are talking about is called snipe, so common to planers they named it. If you measure the distance from the middle of your cutter head to the middle of the out-feed roller it will be the same as the snipe. It's a deeper cut at either of the board end and can be caused by incorrect feeding or misalignment of the in feed or out feed tables, or an unnecessarily high setting of the rollers recessed in the surface of the in-feed table. Some planers overcome this with table extensions and you can try to adjust your rollers to get rid of some of it but I haven't worked with any planers yet that didn't have some degree of snipe. The best way around it is to leave your stock over length to allow later trimming. If you have to pull the board out before it clears the out-feed roller, it may be worn, misaligned or not turning under power enough to pull the board all the way out of the cutter head area.
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Snipe on a planer

if both tables are parallel with each other, then i would bring the outfeed table up just a tad at a time this is usual the problem.
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1answer

Snipe

could be the way you are feeding/removing the board. snipe is actually the sound the board makes when its end passes over the cutter. the inboard table should be slightly lower than the rear table. pressure and movement must be maintained when feeding the board the entire length of the joiner table.
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