Inside cabinet there will be at least a couple of devices that act as safety devices in case of fire. Check for continuity across these devices. They will be identified on the wiring diagram found inside the cabinet.
Open cover and check if all wires are OK.
SOURCE: Sharp Microwave Model R-1830: No power
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
It
may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the
floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If
the fuse is good, it may be an open oven thermal cutout (TCO) on the top of the oven cavity / body or an open thermal fuse on or above the magnetron.
These should read closed (virtually zero) on a continuity check.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If
it went dead or when you plugged it in or opened or closed
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad
connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or
even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on
the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of
course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in,
then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter
leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and
make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know
decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
You can usually find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site but the best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Whrilpool microwave mh1150xm does nothing...dead
There
should be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
If you don't find it, contact me and I can e-mail it to you.
At
our site, we have a video showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
Is it possible that some spray cleaner accidentally got into the controls?
Direct spraying of cleaners on the keypad and steam from the
cooktop can damage the controls.
Always spray non-ammonia cleaner on a
soft cloth (not a paper towel which can scratch) and gently wipe the keypad.
Always use
the vent fan when cooking on the stove top to keep steam and grease out of the controls.
If it does not dry out over time, it may need to be manually dried or blown out.
If you think the controller or keypad may have trouble, we repair these on a regular basis for $39.95 in most cases in about a week or so door to door.
Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your model number) for more information & help.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com
SOURCE: whirlpool microwavewave hood comination mh3184xp
My Whirlpool MH3184xps is shooting a spark when in use with the rack. When the rack is removed the oven works fine. I am guessing that some of the coating on the rack has cracked and peeled and is exposing some aluminum. Has anyone else had this problem?
SOURCE: small fire n microwave
I have a small whole in my microwave that causes a little spark of flame everytime I turn it on...can it be fixed?
SOURCE: my microwave oven keeps tripping the circuit
If a fuse inside had blown, that would definitely reduce the current flow rather than trip the breaker.
I have replaced several breakers over the years; they no longer last forever.
Try your Amana on a different circuit, not in the kitchen; if that other circuit likes the oven, the breaker is bad.
If the alternate circuit breaker also trips, then you have not a blown fuse in the Amana but rather a shorted component inside and repairing the oven will likely cost about the same as replacing it.
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