I need to replace an Intermatic EJ353 in-wall timer for a 3-way lighting circuit, but I can't find them for sale anywhere. Does anyone know what the replacement is?

SOURCE: how to replace clock in intermatic timer

I need to replace the timer on a model #ML600TW

SOURCE: I have an Intermatic ST01C 7 day programmable wall

This page has links to the manuals:

http://www.intermatic.com/products/timers/consumer%20indoor%20timers/in-wall%20timers/st01c.aspx

SOURCE: Replacement of on/off trippers for intermatic low voltage timers

These should work:
http://www.nextag.com/timer-trippers/shop-html

SOURCE: I have a T103 Intermatic timer controlling the

Let's review your wiring. There's probably something miswired when you get symptoms like that. Let's work one circuit at a time.

For circuit #1, the incoming (LINE) black (hot) wire is connected to the #3 terminal. The white (neutral) is connected to the "A" terminal. The bare equipment grounding wire is connected to the "GR" terminal (the green screw on the case).

The outgoing (LOAD) black wire to the first set of lights is connected to terminal #4 and the outgoing white (neutral) wire connects to the "A" terminal. The outgoing bare wire to the lights goes to the "GR" terminal. It's best to twist the wires together with a pigtail, wirenut them and connect the pigtail to the "GR" terminal.

Now for separate circuit #2. The incoming (LINE) black (hot) connects to terminal #1. The incoming white (neutral) connects to terminal "A". The incoming bare wire connects to the "GR" terminal.

The outgoing (LOAD) black wire to the 2nd set of lights connects to the #2 terminal. The outgoing white (neutral) goes to the "A" terminal. It's OK to twist all the white neutral wires (incoming _and_ outgoing for _both_ circuits) together with a pigtail that goes to the "A" terminal. Use a red wirenut.

As long as you don't load the 15 amp breaker over 12 amps (this is considered a continuous circuit and it cannot be loaded over 80% per NEC), you don't have to have two circuits if you don't want too. Figure about 1 amp per light as long as the lights aren't over 100 watt. (100 watt lamp/120 volts = 0.83 amps (round to one amp)

SOURCE: Trying to replace Intermatic with Utilitech inwall

The wires on your new switch are intended for black = power .. white = neutral . and red = lights .. with two black wires on the old switch I am assuming that there is a bundle of white wires in that wall box, the white timer needs to join that bundle ... then you need to determine which black wire is the power from the electrical panel ( voltage tester) and connect to the black timer wire .. the red timer wire connects to the other black wire in the wall..

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