SOURCE: Miele Dryer heater bank
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
SOURCE: Hi, i have a miele novotronic w 916 and it's not spinning
I mean this is not a filter error and i think the power main board inside on front bottom EL110 has an defekt and must change.
Or you can post the problem on my board www.avpc.de with photos for solving together and find another cheap used power board for it ...
SOURCE: replace door seal miele novotonic w 502
Hello mc2739,
It's been awhile for me since I have done this so I searched on the internet and found the following. The instructions are pretty detailed. You may want to contact Miele if any problems
1. Open the machine door.
2. Turn the main power off and unplug the machine from the wall.
3. Completely remove the powder dispenser drawer (it will come out so
far (and stop), then there is a small button at the rear of the
dispenser which you need to depress to remove it fully, you'll see this
button once you've withdrawn the drawer to its stop position.
5. Undo and remove the 3 x hexagonal head bolts surrounding the door
seal (they are at approximately the 2, 6 and 10 o'clock positions).
Note these bolts actually secure the front panel to the machine
chassis, they do not retain the door seal. Don't worry the front will
not drop off.
6. Now look at the aperture of the powder dispenser drawer (you have of
course removed the actual drawer earlier). Locate the lower left hand
corner of the aperture, and you'll see a recessed philips head screw in
a hole. Undo and remove that screw.
7. Now, you'll need to get on your hands and knees. You DO NOT need to
tilt, or lift up the washing machine to do the next bit. Locate the
underside of the front panel right at the bottom. You'll notice that it
sticks out about half an inch or so and is proud of what I would call
the kick plate which extends right down to the floor. You need to look
on the underside of the front panel, about an inch or so in from the
left hand edge. There you will see a spring loaded clip which when
closed is located within a slot on the underside of the front panel.
Using a flat bladed screwdriver, you need to carefully lever the spring
clip open whilst gently pulling the whole front panel (from the left
side) ajar. It will just suddenly pop out once you've done it.
8. Open the pump access door lower left hand side of the front panel)
and unclip the drain tube from its plastic retaining clip.
9. Now carefully swing open the whole front panel, it opens like a door
(hinged on the right hand side). It might be a little stiff as there
are a whost of leads attached to it, but it is designed to open fully
(with the leads attached) to about 90 degrees.
10. Next, unseat the rubber door seal from around the door opening area
(on the chassis, not the front panel, obvioulsy), so that the seal the
flops away from the chassis and lies just inside the machine.
11. You will notice that there is a thin steel band holding the door
seal in place around the drum. On the right hand side (at about the 3
o'clock position), you'ss see a tensioning screw for the band. With a
flat bladed screwdriver undo this completely and remove the screw (it
is accessible from above with a long screwdriver). Be aware that there
is 1 x washer and 1 x 'nut' type fitting that will fall out when you
remove the screw. Locate these and retain them for later.
12. Now extend the steel band to its maximum opening (by moving the 2 x lugs apart where the now removed screw was).
13. You can now remove the steel band. Then pull it out through the hole/door aperture in the chassis.
14. Locate the small rubber tag at about the 12 o'clock position where
the seal is attached to the drum and tug it. The seal will then come
away from the drum. Remove the old seal completely.
15. Using your new seal, place this correctly around the drum (there is
a lip on the seal and this has to go over the lip on the drum.
Remember, the seal goes on the OUTSIDE of the drum. Ensure the 'tag' is
at the 12 o'clock position.
16. Reassembly is then the reverse of removal.
17. Make sure that you do up the retaining steel band sufficiently and
that you correctly locate the sela on the chassis front panel (there is
a groove in the seal which will locate the seal in the aperture).
18. Finally, once you're done, put the machine through a few rinse
cycles (where the water level is high) and look for leaks. If you have
a leak, it is likely that your door seal has a rip/tear, or that it has
not been correctly located around the drum - in which case you'll need
to investigate.
SOURCE: Garage Door will not stay closed.
You need to check the adjustment for the travel of the door ... All automatic closers have a built in safety mechanism that prevents children, pets and even yourself from being crushed by the door ... so if the travel is set to low the door will hit the ground too hard and safety mechanism will activate opening the door again! Look at you documentation for how to adjust this for your particular model :)
SOURCE: How do I use the washing machine, a miele novotronic w 969
Hi,
The I is the pre-wash and the III is the main wash where you put the soap powder. the # star looking symbol is the fabric conditioner.
If you don't have a manual you can download this from the miele website.
Testimonial: "Thanx for the help. I managed to get my first wash very successfully. "
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