While driving my 2004 Range Rover HSE the vehicle goes into engine failsafe mode. I check under the hood and find a melted electronic thermostat wire. I have replaced both the wire and thermostat, but the vehicle will not come out of engine failsafe plus the transmission failsafe light comes on as well. I have pulled codes and I get 3-5 random codes that are inconsistant. The vehicle has a surging idle and has a difficult time running at all. I have taken it to a local mechanic and he is trying to sell me on intake gaskets, but I feel with the burnt wire that this may be more electrical in nature.

SOURCE: overheating

change the vicous on the fan. ( fan clutch)

SOURCE: wiring a 2004 range rover

what is wrong with the car,, that you need to rewire. the wiring for suspention is independant.

SOURCE: online owners manual 2000 land rover range rover hse

Do a serch on Google for RAVE. This is the land rover workshop manuals. The owner manuals are included.
MickyDrew

SOURCE: 2004 Land Rover Freelander - Engine Shakes

Hydraulic lifters? I have been racking my brains for this one. Lifters will sometimes pump up when cold and then lose pressure as they get worked. Would explain why your camshaft died. Suggest you look at old camshaft, see the cams that were worn and replace those lifters. Only thing I can come up with!

SOURCE: Have a 2004 range rover with p122b code output speed sensor

This might sound odd, but it could be the gearbox output shaft bearing. If the transmission sounds noisier than it did, this could be the issue. Only way to check is to take off the transfer box. Not a major job, but takes a while. Some good fault code readers will read transmission codes, and allow you to see in real time what the sensor is doing - if the sensor suddenly loses signal, then it is very likely to be the a bearing (output shaft bearing most likely) that is at fault, causing the sensor ring to move too far from the sensor. Best guess, but could be other things, so don't go taking that transfer box off without getting a road test with a good fault code reader on it - or find someone with a portable oscilloscope and put that across the sensor - you should be able to see nice square wave pulses - if they get bigger and smaller (variable amplitude), that's your problem. If not, the fault lies elsewhere.